Kauai was our second stop of two on our Hawaii trip. I was pleased with the order of our itinerary, and felt like we saved the best for last by finishing in Kauai. This was our favorite island. As the oldest of the Hawaiian Island, the terrain has evolved to be much richer and more lush. This is the Hawaii I’d imagined, evoking connections to favorite adventures like Jurassic Park and Lost.

EXPERIENCE

Like Maui, it is not hard to fill the day in Kauai. We found it essential to start the days at the crack of dawn to maximize the sunny skies before the clouds and light rain rolled in around three. We got fairly lucky with weather, but happened to be in Hawaii for some historically high surf. With waves up to 60 feet in the north of the island, this slightly altered our plans. We managed to see most of what we had hoped to while in Kauai but didn’t get to have every experience I had hoped for. Regardless we had a wonderful trip, and now have many reasons to make it back to this special place someday. 

We started the trip with a quick visit to the roadside Wailua Falls. This is a quick stop, but pretty impressive though you cannot get very close to the actual falls. From here we hit another roadside waterfall, which was less impressive, called Opaekka Falls. 

We really enjoyed out time in the beaches of the South. Here we were able to see the most fish snorkeling and even had some luck spearfishing. We saw octopi, urchins, many colorful fish, several eels and a sea turtle. Our favorite beaches for this were Waiohai Beach and Poipu Beach Park, from here we had any easy time finding snorkel spots near the road that were a bit sheltered from the strong waves. 

We moved up the western coast of the island and checked out Waimea Canyon which is quite impressive. Had we had longer stay, I would have loved to explore this impressive natural attraction more vis hiking. We made are way up to Kokee State Park which I was really looking forward to. This park boasts a few amazing outlook points, Pu’u Overlook and Kalalau Overlook, both of which ended up being clouded in with fog when we arrived. We did however get to enjoy the Milky Way and a clear night sky in this park later in the night while camping. This ended up being the most memorable sight in the park for us. On our way out of the park we hit Polihale State Park. This park is remote and requires quite a drive down a long dirt road to get to. We found the drive worth it however. This beach is very secluded and littered with sand dunes. The view of the layers of jutting mountains is quite spectacular. 

As we moved up the eastern coast, we reached the most stunning part of our entire Hawaii trip- the NaPali Coast. This terrain is spectacularly lush and the beaches are sparkling blue and white. We loved Ke’e Beach, Kauapea Secret Beach, Kalihiwai Beach, Lumahai Beach, Moloa’s Beach as well as many others en route to Kalalau Trail and the NaPali Coast State Park.

Our destination along the Napali Coast was really the trailhead of the Kalalau Trail. Unfortunately, we were only able to hike in and back out for around four miles of the Kalalalu Trail this trip. This was a disappointment since I was originally hoping for us to backpack the entire 11 miles in, and possibly even include the 4 miles round trip excursion to Hanakapi’ai Falls before returning out. Because of the excessive rainfall, this just wasn’t safely possible on this visit. It is however, certainly on our list for next visit. I will again plan to get the 2 night backpacking permit so we can have time to get the full trail in and enjoy the beach when we get to the end. (note this beach did not even exist on our visit last week, the waves had taken it back out to sea.)

Hanalei Bay was perfect for snorkeling and we really loved having a cocktail at the St. Regis Princeville for sunset. While up there we got the wave show of our lives at Queen’s Bath where the waves were some of the biggest they have been in a decade. We sat for hours watching them beat the baths with fury, learning later that a man lost his life in that very spot earlier in the day. (If you visit here, please be cautious.) The Hanalei Valley Overlook was another nice stop. From here the farm fields and plots are visible and the landscape really feels like quintessential Hawaii. 

STAY

Kauai proved to be a test of adaptability. We succeeded and had a fabulous time, but were likely not as efficient in getting around as I had hoped. This was a result of poor planning. As much as we enjoyed our time on the island, my assumption that the road around the perimeter of the island was a loop (in fact it does not connect along the Napali Coast) was wrong. I will detail our accommodations, but please do not take advice from on the sequencing, as it could have been better.

We started our stay in Kapaa with a homestay at a modest Airbnb. From there we camped at Kokee State Park in the north. We planned to camp the second night at either of the campgrounds along the Kalulalu Trail, however the weather was not in our favor. Terrential rains and dangerously high surf made the 11-mile in and out trail impossible to tackle in 2 days. We did a day hike instead and camped the night at Anani Beach on the Northern Coast. After two nights of rainy camping, we were more than thrilled to arrive at the St. Regis Princeville. This place was stunning, a real splurge, but worth it. Here we enjoyed a luxurious food, amazing service and even had the chance to make our own orchid leis and flower crowns while listening to a luau band. The sunsets from the terrace bar and restaurant on the property are spectacular. Their sushi menu is pricey but tastes even better while watching the sun sink beneath Makaleha Mountain. Hanakalei Bay provides one of the loveliest views on the island and some of the calmest, clearest water for snorkeling and swimming.

EAT

By Kauai we had learned what our favorite Hawaiian food items were, and stuck to them! We chased local poke joints and did our best to pick some local produce from the trees around the jungley island. A favorite stop for us near the Napali Coast was Pink’s Creamery. This place serves a tasty Hawaiian Grilled Cheese complete with pulled pork and pineapple. They make their own ice cream and gelato as well, our favorites were Macadamia Vanilla and Coconut Chocolate.

Our favorite poke in Kauai was at the Pono Market near Kapaa. Here the favorite was shoya poke and spicy ahi poke. Near the south of the island we really enjoyed the Koloa Fish Market where we had a Korean poke and avocado poke, both of which were fantastic!

The other hit of the northern coast was Aloha Express, a juice truck near Hanalei. I loved the acai bowls for breakfast and turmeric ginger lemonade to revive myself after the Kalalau Trail. Her selection of fresh fruits and roots is very fresh.

One of the best culinary experiences of the trip however, was eating the octopus and hawkfish my boyfriend caught while spearfishing. We cooked these catches up on the camp stove while camping in Kokee State Park and seasoned them with a little lime and garlic salt. This was probably our most memorable meal of the trip. Other “found” foods were road side guava near the Waimea Canyon and fresh coconuts from the side of the road that we enjoyed from the comfort of our lounge chairs on the beach. 

Kauai was our favorite island this trip, and I expect is my favorite Hawaiian Island period even though I’ve only visited two. That being said, if I return to Hawaii, I’d likely include this island in my itinerary again. I’d really love to come back in the summer months when the trail is drier and the waves are softer to hike the Kalulau Trail to completion including the excursion to Hanakapi’ai Falls, camping at the end on the beach. I’d also love to hit the famous Lappart’s Ice Cream in historic Hanapae. I’d also hope for clearer skies next time I visit and would look forward to the Napali Coast view from the Puu O Kila Outlook and Kalalau Outlook in Kokee National Parks. Once the skis cleared the night sky was so impressive, I’d love to do some Milky Way photography here as well. While in Kokee State Park next visit, I also plan on making time for the Pihea Trail (3.8 miles, 3 hours) which is supposed to be really lovely.