Our trip to the Sepik River region began with a flight to Wewak. From here we continued onto our most intensely immersive cultural stay of the trip, with the local Kanganaman Tribe. There are many villages and cultures along the Sepik, each with their own unique traditional dress and artistic style.

EXPERIENCE

Our journey from Wewak required a rough four hour bus ride to Pagwi where we then boarded canoes for the village we would make camp in. The canoes were motorized hollowed out logs which made for a comfortable nap as we gazed at the crocodiles and egrets along the shoreline. Arriving two hours later in Kanganman was quite a surreal experience.

The community welcomed us to our guesthouse and showed us the lay of the land. The village has two spirit houses (also called haus tambaran). The Kanganman actually boasts the oldest spirit house on the entire river.

The most exquisite crafts, carvings and costumes I have ever laid eyes on. all fashioned from local materials and many inspired by the mighty crocodile, a force to be reckoned with in on the Sepik River.

STAY

Accommodations in Wewak were some of the best of the trip with a stay at the Wewak Boutique Hotel. This place is spotless with a lovely saltwater pool and reliable air conditioning and hot water. I can hardly express how thrilled we were to return to this sanctuary after three days of camp conditions on the Sepik.

The Guesthouse with the Kanganaman on the Sepik was one of the most memorable stays of my life. We stayed in a vaulted shelter without running water or electricity for the duration of our stay. We had the option of bucket bathing from water barrels and had a bit of light in the evening hours as provided from the solar panel fed generator light. We were each given basic mattresses on the hole gapped floor and a mosquito net which was very necessary. It was hot all night, insufferably humid, very buggy and generally uncomfortable- that being said, the opportunity to live among a living, breathing tribe like the Kanganaman for these days was absolutely incredible.

EAT

Some of our best meals of the trip were at the Wewak Boutique Hotel. Here we enjoyed crocodile, salads, crab claws and several stir fried type dishes. The dining area also boasted a full bar and wine selection. The rooms here also had wonderful coffee.

While in Kanganman life was a little rougher. We ate what we were fed which usually included SPAM spaghetti as protein and plenty of white rice. Luckily the group always brought crackers, jam and peanut butter as a supplement to all meals which life more than tolerable while away from modern civilization.